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Building rotaries....
>> I have these dumb questions:
>
>The only dumb question is an unasked one...
>
-- By definition ;-)
>>
>> 1) I have a computer program RotJit which says a large disk with lots of
>> bolts in it would be better than a small disk. What sizes (diameter) are
>> most of your spark gaps? Whats the largest diameter I should use? Would
>> an 8 or 10 inch diameter disk wobble too much? I have no machine tools,
>> so the tolerances won't be exact!
>>
>
>A rotary requires a fair degree of precision in construction so that it
>doesn't self-destruct (taking a piece of the coilers' hide in the
>process!). The rotor must be balanced - the rotor and shaft must be
>concentric and the electrodes evenly balanced and located. The center
>hole for the shaft must be drilled at preccisely a 90 degree angle
>versys the rotor. If this can't be done with your equipment, you'll need
>to use the services of a mahine shop. Don't try the "quick and dirty"
>route on this - these things pack LOTS of rotational energy which can do
>LOTS of damage to life and limb!
As a budding machinist, I concur wholeheartedly. It took me 4 tries to
make a pair of hubs for the G10 (epoxy fiberglass composite) disk on my
rotary. I had troubles with concentricity (putting the hole in the
middle), and perpendicularity (Getting the whole at a right angle to the
face of the hub). I had to talk with a machinist friend before I was
able to do it myself correctly. I do have a lathe. Without one, forget it.
(At least using my design). One design feature that I think is
worthwhile is the 1/2" lexan shielding around the periphery of the gap.
The gap is constructed such that a piece of rotor will have to penetrate
either 1" of plexiglass, or 1/2" of lexan.
As for using it with neons, I can't say that it won't work, but I can say
that you can get great results with a static gap. It's cheaper and much
easier to implement.
Chip
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Chip Atkinson
http://bhs.broo.k12.wv.us/homepage/chip/info.htm
--- Everyone is someone else's weirdo. ---
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