Lexan, Power Factor correction..

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "spoonMAN by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <spoonman534-at-yahoo-dot-com>

Hey all,
  Thanks for all the info on working with lexan and
plexi-glass. I was reading a few posts the other night and
got really ambitious. I decided to try and tune my coil a
little better with a new torroid. Went down to the
basement, fired up the coil, and proceeded to tweak away..
suddenly the gap shut down and small silver orange sparks
began to trace across the wooden base that my gap mounts
were screwed to.. Alas, wood.. especially in high humidity
really sucks as an insulator.. so I set out to build a new
gap base out of lexan.. I'll post some pics later.. 

anyways, I just thought I'd inculde a few tips about
working with lexan.. 

First off, cut edges can quite easily be buffed to a mirror
shine.. BUT, when buffing with a buffing wheel and rogue be
careful not to generate too much friction as the lexan will
begin to melt and you'll have to go back and polish out the
marks.. 

Second, DO NOT cut lexan with a chop saw.. I tried to make
a few mitered cuts and the saw I was using grabbed it right
out of my hand (severly stoving my entire left hand in the
process.. few minor lacerations too.. ) and jammed it into
the saw quard.. needless to say I used a bandsaw from then
on.. 

Now, on to the question.. when adding capicitors to a NST
for power factor correction, do they go in parallel or
series with the primary? 

Thanks for any help!

Ben McMillen


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