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Current limiting , Re: MOT info
- To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
- Subject: Current limiting , Re: MOT info
- From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 09:03:46 -0700
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- Delivered-to: tesla@pupman.com
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- Resent-date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 09:05:22 -0700 (MST)
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Original poster: "david baehr" <dfb25@xxxxxxxxxxx>
I made my own limiter from an ol' transformer , stacked all the Es and all
the Is and change the gap between them for variable inductance , I think I
got enough laminations and #12 wire to make another ,#12 should be good for
limited runs up too 3-4kva ?, make an offer, Im in Colorado,........dave
>From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: MOT info
>Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 11:49:28 -0700
>
>Original poster: Rich Simpson <richcreations@xxxxxxxxx>
>
>
>>I wouldn't worry about the difference cost wise between 30A and 60A
>>draw. Assuming you run it for an hour a day at ~14 kW (plenty
>>enough to annoy/scare the neighbors/police/swat team) over a month
>>that's $84 vs. $42 for ~7kW. I seriously doubt you'll actually run
>>it that much before spark gaps need replaced, ears need a rest,
>>etc. I think it's always easier to use inductive ballasting and
>>cheaper. With caps you'd need lots of them in parallel to handle
>>the 30-60A and you'd need lots of uF (about 100uF for around 25A
>>limiting off the top of my head). I haven't actually tried this
>>myself, but seems like the caps would heat up like resistive
>>ballasting. I personnly would just use the hardware store ballast,
>>(2) 500' rolls of 10-12 awg for 26A limiting.
>I just got my new bigger variac, it is a new dual 120V/22A
>(motorized) unit that I paid dearly for, and I really do not want to
>burn it out, what should I do to get the current down to 22A@240v?
>Again this was for a 6 or 8 mot stack (which is just until I can
>save up for a pig or more neons as all I have is a 6kv/30ma neon
>(and that is just not enough for my 4 inch coil ;-)
>
>Thanks Again
>-Rich
>
>
>