Re: Capacitor Help

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: "MalcolmTesla" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

OK I've rebuilt my primary taking in everyone's suggestions.  No more wood
for  insulation :)

Right as I got started I could see the 3/4" pvc pipe was to small so I went
and got some 1" which turned out to be 1 1/4" even though it was stamped as
1".  It worked out great though.  This time I used 50' of copper tubing and
I got some where around 14 ~ 15 turns instead of just 7.  Oh and this time I
used approx 1/2" spaces instead of 3/4" spaces.  I still need to build the
strike ring but you get the idea.  You guys were so right about using 8
supports instead of 4.  It looks so much neater.
Here's a few pics.

http://www.v8-ranger.com/temp/tesla/12.jpg
http://www.v8-ranger.com/temp/tesla/13.jpg
http://www.v8-ranger.com/temp/tesla/14.jpg
http://www.v8-ranger.com/temp/tesla/15.jpg
http://www.v8-ranger.com/temp/tesla/16.jpg
http://www.v8-ranger.com/temp/tesla/17.jpg
http://www.v8-ranger.com/temp/tesla/18.jpg

Good  night (going to bed zzzzzz)
Malcolm - KC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: Capacitor Help


> Original poster: "David Rieben" <drieben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Malcolm,
>
> One thing you may want to note is that you will probably
> find it a bit of a challenge to "fish" the working end of a
> zip tie through one predrilled hole of the PVC and up and
> out of the neighboring hole, especially with PVC pipe as
> small as 3/4". What "I" did to meet this challenge was to
> fold the working end (the end without the zip lock mecha-
> nism) in two places about 3/4" to 1" apart, then take a
> pair of lineman's pliers and pinch the folds together with
> the pliers very firmly. This will leave the working end
> resembling a hook with two 90 degree elbow. This makes it
> somewhat easier to fish the end of the tie into one hole and twist
> it around to poke out of the adjacent hole as it's obvious that you
> won't be able to slide your free hand into such a small diameter
> pipe to assist in this procedure.
>
> Keep us informed as to how your project works out and
> shoot all of your questions our way as the collective knowledge
> of this group is probably without a doubt the world authority on
> Tesla coil design and construction.
>
> Good luck,
> David Rieben
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 2:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Capacitor Help
>
>
> >Original poster: "MalcolmTesla" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 12:59 PM
> >
> >
> > > Original poster: "David Rieben" <drieben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > >
> > > Hi Malcolm,
> > >
> > > Your mock-up wire holder should probably be enough to
> > > insulate the primary coil tubing from the wooden supports.
> > > Bart is quite correct about wood wanting to carbon track
> > > as I have witnessed this firsthand. You could also use short
> > > lengths of plain small diameter PVC pipe as the "runners"
> > > as well as plexiglass. Check out photos  2 thru 7 on my
> > > Tesla coil webpage at: http://dawntreader.net/hvgroup/david/gm.html
> > > I know this is a larger scale coil than your proposed coil,
> > > but it should give you a general idea.
> > >
> > > Good luck and may your sparks be LONNNGGG,
> > > David Rieben
> >
> >David, funny you should reply.  I was just going to email you.  Your web
> >page gave me the idea for a primary that I could build.  I just got back
> >from home depot.  I got 10 feet of 3/4" PVC, 200 little zip ties (may
need
> >more), and a new 50 foot coil of 1/4" coper tubing.  I'm going to attempt
to
> >build a primary like you did.  Well on a slightly smaller scale.
> >
> >Everyone on the list gave me lots of good ideas.  I looked at plexiglass
at
> >home depot and it was very expensive and they only had thin sheets that
I'd
> >have to cut up and stack side by side to make thick runners to hold the
> >tubing.  After throwing around a few ideas I decided to copy Davids.
We'll
> >see how that goes.  I'm going to work on that tonight.
> >
> >Thanks again everyone.  I'll keep the pictures coming so you can see how
I'm
> >doing.
> >Malcolm - KC
> >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > > To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 12:19 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Capacitor Help
> > >
> > >
> > > >Original poster: "MalcolmTesla" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >
> > > >Bart,
> > > >
> > > >I got to thinking some more about what you said below about the
arcing
> > > >across the primary.  I'm certainly not questioning your experience
and
> >know
> > > >how but wouldn't it be a shorter path for the current in the primary
to
> >just
> > > >flow around the coil than arc across it?  Obviously not since arcing
> >occurs
> > > >and is an issue.  I'm just not sure how.
> > > >
> > > >Anyway I got to thinking what if I can't find some thick plexiglass
> > > >tomorrow.  Could I just use plastic wire holders?  Do all the metal
> >screws
> > > >used in such a setup pose a problem?  Perhaps affecting the magnetic
> >field?
> > > >See these two pics for what I'm talking about.  I quickly just
> > mocked > >up
> >a
> > > >piece of my idea.
> > > >http://www.v8-ranger.com/temp/tesla/8.jpg
> > > >http://www.v8-ranger.com/temp/tesla/9.jpg
> > > >
> > > >This would insulate the primary from the wood.  Not by much but I
think
> > > >enough to stop carbon traces from forming.
> > > >
> > > >Let me know what you think
> > > >
> > > >Thanks again
> > > >Malcolm - KC
> > > >
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 10:31 PM
> > > >Subject: Re: Capacitor Help
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Malcolm
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for taking all the pictures. They are certainly a great
help.
> > > > > The primary is my #1 concern. Don't lay the primary tubing
> > into > > > those
> > > > > wooden runner notches, not even with varnish on the form. You
"will"
> > > > > eventually, and soon, arc into the runners and carbon track a
> > > > > distance through the wood. I use wooden forms myself, but, I
> > > > > "learned" to add a distance between the wood and the tubing to
> > > > > prevent just this problem. Wood is great for cost and
machinability,
> > > > > as long as you adhere to high voltage physics. I use plexiglas
> > > > > runners between my wooden runners and the actual coil. On some
other
> > > > > primary's, I've used an actual plastic cylindrical standoff
(approx.
> > > > > 1/4 inch from primary to wood).
> > > > >
> > > > > Your runners look "prepared" for the tubing to just lay down and
set
> > > > > inside the notches. I would recommend letting the notches serve as
> > > > > the "position point" for the tubing, but find a pliable insulator
to
> > > > > cut to width and length of the runners which you can keep
> > between > > > the
> > > > > windings and runners (at least 1/8 inch thickness).
> > > > >
> > > > > Just for reference, I've caused a 4 inch length carbon track in
G10
> > > > > disc material (everything is conductive when conditions are
right).
> > > > > And for some reason, we coilers always seem to find
> > those > > > conditions.
> > > > >
> > > > > Best of luck,
> > > > > Bart
> > > > >
> > > > > PS. If you need any explanation of Javatc, just contact me
offlist.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tesla list wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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