RE: Rotary Gap Design

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: "Dave Halliday" <dh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

You can mount the rotor on a shaft and use two parallel and level metal
bars (knife edge is best).  The rotor will turn until the heaviest part
is down. Mark it and drill it out a bit and try again.

The bars have to be very level so check it with just the shaft first.

For a knife edge, if you do woodworking, you might already have a
jointer or a surface planer -- the knives from these would work great
(you are trying to minimize surface friction which can have a surprising
effect).

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 6:49 PM
> To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Rotary Gap Design
>
>
> Original poster: "Jon Danniken" <danniken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>  > Original poster: "James Zimmerschied">
>  >
>  > Hello all,
>  > there is some good discussion going on concerning rotary gap design
>  > especially with regards to electrode attachment. I haven't
> heard much
>  > said about balancing the rotor. My friend Bob Svangren has built a
>  > number of rotary gaps and one thing he is very concerned about is
>  > balancing the unit. He has a balance machine used for
> model airplane
>  > props or other small items. On a rotary I built and Bob
> helped on, we
>  > spent a lot of time balancing and removing small bits of
> mass ( hole
> drilling).
>  >
>  > The end result is a very smooth running rotary.
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Do remember the elements for the balancing machine?  I've
> been thinking of
> constucting one of these, and would appreciate any insight as
> to how one is
> put together.  So far, all I can think of is mounting the
> motor on a table
> with springs and marking where the spinning rotor goes high.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
>
>
>
>