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Re: High Power SRSGs
Original poster: DRIEBEN@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Hi Gerry,
I've been thinking about trying using just the rotary
gap alone, without the seriesed stationary, since I do
have it better tuned and broke in now, due to the gap
loss issue that you mention.
I just predilled the holes big enough to slide the
tungsten electrodes in by hand and then drilled and
tapped a small hole from the outer periphery of the
disc to screw in a set screw to secure each of the
flying electrodes in place. However, the red electrical
grade fiberglass material would tend to strip out too
easily so I finally just centered each electrode and
dabbed both sides with "Plastic Weld" epoxy glue. I
then had to take an angle grinder to remove the excess
dried glue on each side to regain decent balance of
the rotor. I would eventually like to get another disc
of G-10 or G-11 made for it and have a professional
machinist (which I am definitely NOT) drill the holes
set and press fit the electrodes for me.
David Rieben
----- Original Message -----
From: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sunday, March 26, 2006 11:10 pm
Subject: Re: High Power SRSGs
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> Original poster: "Gerry Reynolds" <gerryreynolds@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Hi David,
>
> Maybe, I will start out with two stationary electrodes and see how
> things go. I'm thinking that the closer the gap spacing is, the
> less
> power is lost across the gap. Maybe having 4 gaps just means
> twice
> the power lost than with two gaps (everything else the same). If
> I
> dont get power arcing with two stationary electrodes, then maybe
> I'm
> done. But then again, maybe there are quenching considerations
> wanting a static gap in series with the RSG.
>
> I like your pictures. Did you press the tungsten into the rotor
> material or do you have a rod holder on the back side. I'm also
> looking for elegant ways to mount the tungsten into the G10 rotor.
> I
> used brass bolts on my smaller SRSG, but 3/8 tungsten would need
> 5/8
> brass to mount the same way.
>
> Gerry
>