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Re: 4 Inch tesla coil - Inquiries



Original poster: "resonance" <resonance@xxxxxxxxxxxx>



If you have access to a signal generator and an oscilloscope you can accurately tune your coil manually. Attach a 30 inch long wire to the sec coil's toroid to simulate the 1 pF/ft capacitance of the spark channel. Wrap 2 turns around the bottom of the sec and drive with a signal generator capable of outputting at least 10 Volts peak to peak (older sig gens are better). Scope pickup probe is a wire approx 2 inches away from the toroid.

You can find the resonant freq of the sec with toroid and simulated spark channel in this manner.

Then, short out your spark gap with a jumper and check the resonant freq of the primary to match the sec resonant freq. Your actual tuning point should be within 1/8 turn or less of this resonance.

I will send you a sketch off-list.

Dr. Resonance




Original poster: "Hydrogen18" <hydrogen18@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

I've got a 4 inch tesla coil that I've pulled out of storage and set about improving and trying to make into a more logical setup. Specs are as follows

Secondary - 4 inch Schedule 80 pipe, 1500 turns 28 awg, 18 inches long

Primary - Coil of 1/4 inch copper pipe, about 13 turns worth. laid out flat and zip tied to plexiglass. 1/4 spacing between turns. about 2 foot overall diameter.

Spark gap - Static style, 1 inch spherical brass drawer pulls mounted to 1/2 inch copper pipe. This can be adjusted really easily. A cheap blower supposedly running at 25000 rpm blows alot of air in an uncontrolled fashion across these. They get pretty dang hot, but the arc seems to be quenched pretty well, although I have no first hand experience with spark gaps outside of my own design.

Topload - 12 inch toroidish thing with a section of 4 inch dryer duct stacked around it. Seems to discourage primary strikes pretty well, although it was designed for such

Tank Cap - 942C20P15K's(2000 VDC 0.15MFD) in strings of 8, up to 3 strings of these in paralell(plenty more strings ready to be assembled). Mounted in a wooden box but the capacitors themselves are in 180 degree sections of PVC pipe for insulation. Connection is made at all junctions to the strings by means of 1/4-20 brass bolt.

Power supply - 4 MOTS producing around 9500 volts RMC AC, current is limited by 10 lbs 10 AWG wrapped around a 3 inch piece of Schedule 80 with an adjustable iron core(I have also left the shunts in the MOTS, as I see no need to drive them as hard as some people do; mine are not under oil but epoxy potted). Driven by a 30 Amp 240 VAC outlet, I do not feel this is the limitation in my setup.

So far my recent attempts have yielded point to point strikes of 28 inches or more; longer arcs accounting for the bend. That was with 2 capacitor strings. Attempting to use 3 capacitor strings seems to make finding a tuning point impossible, all I suceeded in doing was getting the primary so hot I burned myself(this was in just a second or so of having the spark gap firing). I am dumb tuning this coil, just starting at turn one and moving out until I get a large response, and then making smaller movements from there. I've made the following conclusions:

- Steel anywhere in the primary circuit basically destroys performance and likes to get really hot. - Tuning seems to be very pecuilar on a lower coupling coil(I had 3 inch coil in the past with 'high' coupling between the primary and secondary, you could make turns of adjustment to the primary without noticeable output in spark). - The charging current available to the coil doesnt seem to affect things much, other than the spark gap getting louder. - This spark gap is better than the last, because I don't have to wait for it to cool down between runs. It takes a very long time run time for the initial breakdown voltage to change due to tempature of the electrodes. They are hotter than a car brake rotor at the parts you can observe, but I suspect where it matters they are remaining cool. They also dont require a resurfacing every 30 seconds of runtime.

And I've got these concerns:

- My primary is very poor. The spacing is nonuniform. I think tuning is changing because the turns are not held very securely. - Should I add another gap to my static spark gap? Are there any telltale signs of an overloaded static power gap? I know that the signs of a 'power arc'(the deep orange-reddish arc that does not quench) or rapid electrode erosion are two to look for, and I have neither. - I have a safety gap on my transformer, so I'm not concerned about opening my spark gap up too much. But is there a primary side side RMS VAC that I shouid aim to have the spark gap breakdown at?

My questions are from here:

- Should I bother improving the primary? I'm not getting turn to turn arcing, it's the inconsistency of the shape that's my concern. - What's the maximum size capacitor for this coil I can reasonably expect to run?(I know my limitation is the spark gap, and probably will be for all my coiling years given the easy availability of large dangerous HV transformers) - Why is my primary getting so darn hot? Is off resonance driving of the coil the cause of this? - Is there a better(intelligent, mathematical) method of tuning the coil I can employ?
- What kind of spark length performance should I expect from this coil?
- Any other obvious mistakes?