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Re: Double Throw Spark Gap (fwd)
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 11:48:46 -0700
From: Jim Lux <jimlux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Double Throw Spark Gap (fwd)
Tesla list wrote:
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 17:28:25 -0500
> From: Crispy <crispy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Double Throw Spark Gap (fwd)
>
> Thanks for the advice on the counterpoise - I'll try that. I'm
> wondering why the problems of feeding RF into the building's ground
> disappear when a counterpoise is used ... or is this true at all?
The idea is to give the RF currents from the topload a low impedance way
to get back to the bottom of the secondary. They could either
capacitively couple to the environment, including any appliance or AC
power wiring, and then, by some circuitous route, make their way to the
green wire you used to ground your TC, perhaps through the parasitic
capacitance of the neon transformer's windings to case.
OR, they can capacitively couple to a nice flat low inductance mesh
under the coil, and return by a short piece of wire to the bottom of the
coil.
Basically, you have a circuit where you have a HV source with RF on it,
that is capacitively coupled to lots of things that eventually wind up
back a the coil. What you want to do is make sure that the "desired"
path is a LOT lower impedance than all the other paths, so the current
flows in the desired path.
The other aspect is the magnetic field from the sparks. This is what
couples to victim devices in the vicinity, even if they're not connected
to anything else. Essentially what you have is a loosely coupled
transformer, with one turn formed by coil:topload:spark:grounded target:
coil, and the other turn formed by some loop in your victim device. If
you contain the current flow in the sparks to flowing just in the area
of the coil, that tends to reduce the field that is farther away. The
field drops off quite quickly (1/r^2 to 1/r^3, depending on geometry)
I may
> also try to completely bury a real ground and have some mechanism where
> can attach and detach the grounding wire to this underground
> construction even where the construction itself isn't visible.
Don't even bother. The grounding circuit for an indoors operation will
be so long that's it's not worth worrying about. More likely that your
ground wire will form the counterpoise, than any actual current will
flow in the "real" ground.
OTOH, you SHOULD make sure that there is some safety ground (third
prong, green wire) connection for things that *you* can touch, if they
are conductors. (I assume none of the spectators come within touching
range of anything)
And, you can connect your RF ground/counterpoise to the green wire
ground if you like, although, I'd favor (my opinion only, others differ)
putting some sort of RF choke in it. That way, if some line frequency
wire happens to touch the groundplane, you won't get shocks (e.g. if one
of the HV leads from the primary shorts to the counterpoise, say by the
conductivity of a stray spark). But this is a 50/60 Hz thing, not a
100kHz thing.