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Re: [TCML] HV insulation question
Ignition coils have always been accepted as on topic before.
I too have used the Accel Super Coils a good bit but also use the standard
types. Here is how I deal with the standard steel can ignition coils. First,
I put the output wire inside a length of vinyl tubing and plug this into the
output tower. Then, I put a piece of PVC pipe over it. I use 1" diameter PVC
pipe so that it slides almost all the way down over the output tower of the
coil and I seal the bottom edge with RTV silicone sealant. This has worked
very well for me.
If you go to Peter Terren's web site, IIRC it is www.tesladownunder.com, you
will find some examples of his ignition coils and he has a picture of one
with the arc climbing from the end of a long output wire down along the edge
of the insulation and onto the negative electrode! It looks like it is about
12" long. The output wire has extra insulation added, it looks like vinyl
tubing, and I guess it took the best path it could to get to the negative
electrode.
Paul
Think Positive
----- Original Message -----
From: <mrapol@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 10:03 AM
Subject: [TCML] HV insulation question
This is only tangentially related to Tesla coils, but it is apropos to HV.
I've been tinkering with automobile ignition coils off and on for years. I
have a couple of Accel Super Coils, which are large, squarish coils with
heavy duty plastic bodies. When I use them as power sources I have no
problems tapping them at the center post and negative post. They are far
enough apart that standard ring connectors work fine. However, whenever I
try to use an older can-style ignition coil, I always get arcs between the
center and negative terminal. Does anyone have any suggestions how to make
connections to a can type coil that doesn't short like that? Maybe lengths
of vinyl tubing over the connections?
I do use these ignition coils to power my small tabeltop Tesla coils
(there, it is on topic . . . )
PBT
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