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Re: [TCML] Grounding Coil to Water Pipe
Hi Brandon,
I suppose the short answer to your long question is
"yes", but that's an awful lot of "assumptions" that
you are launching from. ;^) A dedicated RF ground
in the form of one (or more) 8 ft. copper clad ground
rods driven to nearly full depth into the soil is by far
your best option. If the soil in your area is prohibitive-
ly hard to allow this be done with any reasonable de-
gree of ease, you can always trickle water to your
"drilling" site to soften up the soil as you pound the
rod into it. The soil where I reside is the relatively
soft alluvial soil of the lower Mississippi River delta
but still, pounding 8 ft. of a 5/8" diameter rod into
even this soil type with an 8 lb. sledge hammer can
prove somewhat challenging this time of year. (Midwinter
would be the "easiest" time to do it, at least for the first
several inches of clay topsoil). I have found that trickling
water to the formed hole does make penetration MUCH
easier, though, and I would surmise that even the hard,
rocky soils of the western US could be somewhat
tamed by this method.?
David Rieben
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brandon Hendershot" <brandonhendershot@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TCML] Grounding Coil to Water Pipe
Alright,
Briefly returning to the initial subject;
So what I've learned is that it's a very bad idea to ground to the water
pipe partialy because it may be connected to the "green wire ground" at the
water heater. Also because the underground pipes may convert to
non/conductive PVC piping, destroying any ground potential.
BUT, assuming that the electrical system doesn't comply with code and
doesn't connect back to safety ground at the water heater, and that the pipe
leading underground doesn't switch over to PVC, I *could* get a solid ground
connection without pounding down a new pipe or frying any in home
electronics?
Thanks Guys,
Brandon_______________________________________________
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