Thread-topic: **External Email** Re: DC motor fuse/rectifier issue
I just used the standard CORCOM EMI filters but I'm sure that other brands work equally well.
Steve White
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Oxandale" <toxandale@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 9:31:59 AM
Subject: Re: [TCML] **External Email** Re: DC motor fuse/rectifier issue
Thanks Steve. Do you have any suggestions on the filter? I was kinda headed in that direction anyway, but not sure what to look for.
On Tuesday, July 28, 2020, 09:15:12 AM CDT, Steve White <steve.white1@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I use a modified induction motor for synchronous operation using AC so its not exactly like your setup. I have done several things to protect the motor.
1. Independent ground for motor case and shield around power cable. Motor case and shield are tied together.
2. I added a line filter at the motor mounting point under the Tesla coil base.
3. I added another line filter on the motor power cable back at the control cabinet.
4. I added a varistor to the motor power cable at the control cabinet end.
I've been operating this coil at 6.5 KVA for about 4 years now with no problem.
Steve White
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Oxandale" <toxandale@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 8:18:16 AM
Subject: Re: [TCML] **External Email** Re: DC motor fuse/rectifier issue
Thanks David...that exactly matches my observations, so yes, I did undo the center mounting bolt (allow the FWB to just hang there) just to see if that would help, but the problem, though less severe, continues to happen.
I had also wondered about utilizing both legs (240) to power the motor (FWB) instead of just the single leg (120), This would require more careful use of the variac being the motor is only 90VDC rated.
Terry
On Monday, July 27, 2020, 08:30:40 PM CDT, David Rieben <drieben@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Terry,
My ARSG control assembly is set up pretty much the way you’ve described yours, and I had that very same issue with my coil when I grounded (mains, not RF) the outer metal casing of my FWB rectifier (also rated @ 1kv/50 amps). My FWB rectifier worked perfectly fine in this arrangement when only driving the motor, as long as the coil wasn’t ‘sparking’. However, once I turned the voltage feed variac to my transformer up enough to break down the spark gap and initiate sparks from the top load, the FWB rectifier shorted out almost immediately! I believe I let the magic smoke out of two or three of them in this manor! Once I replaced the blown out FWB rectifier with a fresh one AND removed the ground from its outer casing and just allowed it to ‘float’, it worked flawlessly throughout coil’s active sparking range of power throughput (and the voltage input range for the motor) and I had no more problems.
David
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 27, 2020, at 6:54 PM, shaun <snoggle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Does the motor case and variac share the same ground.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tesla [mailto:tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Terry Oxandale
> via Tesla
> Sent: July 27, 2020 4:52 PM
> To: 'Tesla Coil Mailing List'
> Subject: Re: [TCML] **External Email** Re: DC motor fuse/rectifier issue
>
> Blows only under higher powers, and could be related to ground strikes or
> strike rail strikes. There is a lot going on when I bump up the power, and
> the death of the rectifier or fuse has some component of time delay before
> the obvious slowing of the rotor disc is noticed. I do know that I've had
> ground and rail strikes that did not result in this issue, so no definitive
> or observed issue that I can find that has an obvious direct correlation.
>
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tesla <tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of shaun
> Sent: Monday, July 27, 2020 1:20 PM
> To: 'Tesla Coil Mailing List' <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: **External Email** Re: [TCML] DC motor fuse/rectifier issue
>
> I use about the same setup with a 3hp dc motor and not blowing fuses, the
> bridge does get warm. Can you just run the motor on the floor by itself.
> Also does the fuse blow right away or ever time. Sounds like you have an
> short in the wiring.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tesla [mailto:tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Terry Oxandale
> Sent: July 27, 2020 1:51 PM
> To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [TCML] DC motor fuse/rectifier issue
>
>
> I'm using a permanent magnet DC motor for my ARSG. Power is through a
> variac, to a diode bridge, and then out to the motor under the coil. The
> issue is that I can't keep the fuses protecting this circuit, nor rectifier,
> intact. I use a 10 amp fuse at the control cabinet for protection (just off
> the 120vac hot leg of a 240vac source), and the DC supply cable for the
> motor is surrounded by grounded braided copper. I have an ammeter to monitor
> the motor, which indicates proper draw during runs (2-3 amps depending on
> speed), yet the cheap bridge (50 amp/1000 v) gets warm fast, and also does
> not endure an extended run on the coil. A while back I created a filter of
> sort to smooth the full-wave pulses (cap/reactor), but that made things
> worse, so that was removed. I don't have a sufficient understanding of the
> induced currents associated with these coils, and hoping someone here can
> help. I have yet to determine if a failed bridge is the cause of the fuse
> blowing, so I may insert
> some fuses at different points of the circuit to find out. My assumption
> is the rectifier (very cheap ebay item) could be at fault, but there is a
> lot of knowledge I lack about what impacts of these coils on
> surrounding/supporting circuits. Any thoughts on what can do to resolve
> this?
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